Built for Rock'n'Roll (i was)

The page below offers offers a list along with a brief summary of the World War Two Airsoft guns available. 

   

Tokyo Mauri M1A1 Thompson FPS: 290 Construction: Plastic and Alloy Gearbox: V3 Cost: $350 The Tokyo Mauri Thompson is a Japanese made airsoft gun. It is electric powered. It shoots around 280fps out of the box. It is fully upgradable. The wooden parts are made of ABS plastic. The lower receiver is also plastic. The rest of the weapon is metal alloy of some sort. The metal finish is excellent with a blued look to it. Their are Thompson trademarks engraved on the sides of the receiver. The plastic stock is decent looking though the seams give it away. The battery is easily accessible due to a flip out butt plate. It can fit a large type 8.4 volt battery if you remove the foam spacer in the stock. Like all Mauri guns this one too is known for its durability and reliability. One known problem is the exterior barrel often breaks at this spot.  I highly recommended this weapon. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CYMA M1A1 Thompson FPS: 350-380 Construction: Plastic and Alloy Gearbox: V3 Cost: $100-$200  The CYMA Thompson is a Chinese made airsoft gun cloned after the Tokyo Mauri M1A1 Thompson. It is virtually identical to the Mauri weapon in design. This gun is fairly accurate and hard hitting out of the box. In my opinion it doesn't need any accuracy or FPS upgrades. It can easily be upgraded though if one wanted to. The gearbox internals are of decent quality on par with most Chinese clones. They should last for about 2 to 3 years with no maintenance. The exterior metal parts are finished in a flat black paint which is fairly durable. Their are Thompson trademarks which are painted on. The gearbox internals are greased with the typical Chinese junk and should be cleaned and re greased. Metal bushings are highly recommended for this weapon. The wood finish is a little bit too light but it looks decent. It shares the same problem as the Mauri which is the barrel often breaks in this area. I recommend this as a very decent airsoft weapon. It is also a very good starter gun. Here's a review comparing it to the Mauri version ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2nd Bat M1 Garand AEG Custom FPS: 330-380 Construction: Plastic, Wood, Alloy, and Steel Gearbox: V7 Cost: $560  2nd Bat's M1 Garand is a custom electric powered airsoft rifle. Its base rifle is a CYMA M14. It is accurate to about 200 feet with the hop up adjusted. The gearbox is a a direct Mauri M14 clone and can be fully upgraded. The rifle itself is fairly realistic to the real Garand. The main noticeable difference is the left side of the receiver. The stock is plastic and the hand guards are real wood. The "wood effect" on the plastic stock is well done and looks pretty real. It uses an original steel gas cylinder and front sight. I highly suggest you purchase this rifle. They can be bought from 2nd Bat on the WWIIAA forum here ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2nd Bat Recruit M1 Garand FPS: 330-380 Outer Construction: Plastic, Alloy, and Resin Gearbox: V7 Cost: $425 The Recruit Version Garand shares the same attributes as the first version but has some differences. The differences are the Gas Assembly and Hand guards are both made out of resin instead of wood and metal. Despite being resin they look very close to the real parts. The wood finish makes the hand guards look like real wood. It is only available from 2nd bat on the WWII Airsoft Forums. This is a more affordable and also decent looking and performing M1 Garand. I highly recommend this Rifle. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2nd Bats Version II M1 Garand FPS: 330-380 Outer Construction: Wood, Alloy, and Steel Gearbox: V7 Cost: $780 The 2nd Version Garand is an electric rifle. It shares the same attributes as the first version but has an enhanced wooden stock. It has been known to have problems with the stock splitting in the grip area though. It is only available from 2nd bat on the WWIIAA Forums. I recommend this Rifle. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ares M3A1 Grease Gun   FPS: 330 Construction: Steel Gearbox: Custom Cost: $240 The Ares grease gun is a very high quality airsoft replica of the M3A1 Grease gun used very late in WW2 and in the Korean War. Ares is known as a better brand which makes its own designs instead of cloning others. This is their first WW2 release. The gun itself is electric. The external parts are made entirely out of stamped steel just like the real weapon. The paint job is very nice and made to look like a late-war green finish. Over all the exterior of this gun is fantastic. It is challenging to disassemble though. As far as the insides go it uses a custom type non reinforced gearbox. It is mostly upgradable. The internals are decent and well lubricated. It also has metal 6mm bushings. A strong spring is not suggested due to the gearbox being non reinforced. The battery is in fact located in the 65 round magazine. This is the downfall of this weapon. It has metal contacts on the top of the magazine. It connects when you insert the magazine inside the gun. You need a battery for each clip you have. The best solution would be to use cheap batteries as the life would last long being they are switched around after you go through your 65 rounds. One person was able to mount a lipo battery in the pistol grip with some modification. Extra magazines are available for $24 a piece. A Detailed review can be found on the WWII Airsoft forum by Kalbs. Link here! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ICS M3 Grease Gun FPS: 330 Construction: Alloy, steel, palmer Cost: $180  The ICS Grease gun is an electric powered airsoft gun. It fires around 350fps. It is modeled after the WW2 M3 Grease gun, unlike the Ares ,which is the M3A1 used in the after the war. The difference is the M3 has a charging handle while the M3A1 does not. Its finish is painted in a matte black color. The gun itself is made mostly of metal apart from a portion of the lower receiver and the trigger housing, which is plastic. A few of the parts are made of steel including the retractable stock. It comes with a High capacity magazine. No low capacity magazines have been released thus far. The weapon feels solid and there are not wobbles. Included with the gun is a manual which explains how to take the weapon apart. The gun is accurate to about 150 feet. The battery is inserted in the rear of the weapon by removing the tab which comes off with a few twists, no tools required. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2nd Bat's M1 Garand Kit   Construction: Resin Cost: $145  2nd Bat's M1 Garand Kit includes everything you will need to convert an M14 to an M1 Garand. The only thing you will need to buy other then the kit is an M14, such as the Tokyo Mauri, CYMA, or AGM versions. The kit includes the following: Step by step directions on how to apply the kit, hand guards, gas cylinder, and front sight pre modified and painted, stains, paint, stir sticks, rubber gloves, sand paper, and also one short M1 Garand magazine as well as instructions on how to build more. It includes everything you need except the base rifle. It's a weekend project (at most) and all you'll need is a hack saw or dremel, a Phillips head screw driver and the hex wrench that came with your M14. It can be bought from 2nd Bat on the WWII Airsoft Forum Here. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marushin M1 Carbine   FPS: 320 Construction: Wood and Alloy Cost: $350 The Marushin M1 Carbine is a full wood and metal Bolt action gas operated Airsoft gun. It uses HFC134a gas. It shoots about 320 FPS. It is bolt action unlike the real weapon. The bolt needs to be cocked manually after each shot. The gun needs to be field stripped and screws need to be tightened after use. It is known to be pretty reliable and accurate. Extra magazines are hard to come by. The rifle is all wood and metal. There are two versions available one shoots 6mm BB's the other 8mm. Other then their caliber they are the same in design. They are no longer available but can be found used. They were originally priced in the $350 range. I'd highly suggest you buy it if you can find one. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------  VFC Browning Automatic Rifle FPS: 380 Construction: Wood, Aluminum, and steel Gearbox: V6 Cost: $999-$2000  The VFC B.A.R is an impressive weapon. Its electric and is very reliable. It fires at 330FPS. The receiver and barrel are high quality aluminum. The front and rears sights are steel along with the bi-pod. It comes with a real wood stock and front grip. The whole rifle weighs in at about 10 pounds. It comes apart like the real weapon. The gearbox is version 6, with 8mm bearings and a quick release spring. I highly recommend this gun, you will not be unhappy with it! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------  ACM Clone 1918 B.A.R Rifle  FPS: 380 Construction: Alloy, ABS plastic, and steel Gearbox: V6 Cost: $350-$500  The new clone of the VFC B.A.R is a very welcome release. Each weapon comes with the rifle, a bipod, carry handle, and one high capacity magazine. It is pretty much identical to the VFC B.A.R in design. The build quality is not as impressive as can be expected for a clone. Most of the parts are metal alloy, "pot metal". The faux wood parts are ABS plastic and include some noticeable screw holes. The paint job is done up as a parkerized finish, which looks decent. The parts made of steel are notably the bipod and the carry handle. The stock allows a lot of room for large battery packs.  I highly recommend this gun for those who love the B.A.R! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------   Zeta Labs M44 and 91/30 Mosin Nagant FPS: 380 Construction: Steel and Wood Cost: $370  Zeta Lab's has released two Mosin Nagant rifles. The full size 91/30 and the smaller carbine the M44. Other then a few external differences in appearance they are the same which is why we combined them into one overview. They are both extremely high quality airsoft weapons. The internal design is original to this rifle. The externals are as good as you can get. Its full steel with a high quality beautiful real wood stock. The cocking handle is heat treated steel. It also comes with a leather/linen sling and a resin side folding bayonet, which is sharp by the way(ouch). The internals are just as good as the externals they are mostly steel and ready to take a stronger spring. It comes with a tightbore barrel. The hop up works well too. The rifle loads from the bottom. Its one downside is the loading system which is somewhat finicky. Upgrade parts are also non existent since the internals are unique in design. AEG Springs are said to work though. Certainly one of the nicest WW2 airsoft guns around. Amazing rifle that I highly suggest. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- HP PPSH41   FPS: 350 Construction: Steel and Wood Gearbox: V7 Cost: $250  The Hexagon Production PPSH41 is the first large marketed PPSH41 to be released. It is an electric powered machine gun. It can fire on full and semi automatic. Its internals are a clone gearbox(M14) with metal bushings. The internals are standard clone type although they are greased well. It can be easily upgraded. The rifle is really well made. Its made of all stamped steel just like the originals and a real wooden stock. The finish is blued also the same as the originals were finished. It opens up just like the real machine gun. Opening the bolt reveals the hop up unit. It comes with one drum magazine which holds about 400 BB's. The Drum magazine has some problems but HP released a Youtube Video on how to fix it. The modification takes about 15 minutes with a dremel tool. The video on How to Fix it can be viewed here. No need to worry as these problems have been fixed on newer versions of this gun.  I highly recommend this SMG. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- AGM Sten MKII   FPS: 310 Construction: Alloy Gearbox: V3 custom Cost: $150-$200 The AGM Sten is an electric airsoft gun. It fires on full auto only just like the real weapon. It uses a modified V3 Gearbox which is upgradeable except for maybe the nozzle and tappet plate. It uses standard clone internals, which are ok quality but poorly greased. The hop up can also be replaced with a standard M4 type. The hop up is adjustable and is done so with an allen wrench which comes with the gun. It uses AGM MP40 magazines. The mag well can be rotated into a straight position or sticking out from the side like the real sten. It comes with a 7.4 volt lipo battery. Over all the gun is pretty solid feeling except for the stock which has a slight wobble to it. I'd suggest you buy this weapon. Battery Compartment shown below

Tanaka Kar98 FPS: 520-540 Construction: Aluminum and Wood Cost: $500  The Tanaka Kar98 is a gas operated bolt action rifle. It is an extremely hard shooter at 520-540 FPS. Its an all wood and aluminum construction. The wood and metal finish is very nicely done. It runs on Green Gas. There have been reports of the receiver warping after extended use. Some suggest not pulling the bolt back all the way. Instead only pull it back a about a inch to prevent wear. It functions well in the hot and mildly cold temperatures. These are no longer made but can be found used. Its one of the best performing WWII airsoft guns made though the durability can be lacking sometimes. I'd recommend it. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- AGM MP40 FPS: 330 Construction: Alloy and ABS Plastic Gearbox: V3 custom Cost: $100-$200 The AGM MP40 is an electric airsoft gun. It fires on semi and full auto. It uses a modified V3 Gearbox. It is mostly upgradeable. It uses standard clone internals, which are decent but poorly greased. The hop up is on the poor side unfortunately and is the guns main downfall. It can be replaced with an AK47 type hop up. This requires modification though. It also uses a custom two piece barrel which results in air leaks. I recommend customizing the hop up unit with this guide. Its metal parts include barrel, front and rear sights, upper receiver, Handle, Magazine, and folding stock. All the metal parts are alloy. Its ABS plastic parts include the handle grips, and the lower receiver portion. On the real MP40 The grips and lower portion were constructed of plastic Bakelite so the non metal construction of these parts is authentic. The metal finish is dark flat black. The Bakelite finish is OK but a bit plastic looking. The main unrealistic thing about this weapon is the semi auto option which was not present on the real machine gun. This is a decent starter weapon. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SCR MP40 FPS: 300 Construction: Steel and Plastic Gearbox: V3 modifed Cost: $330 The SCR is a very high quality airsoft replica of the MP40 sub-machine gun. It is the best MP40 on the market. The receiver is made of stamped steel. The grips and lower body are ABS plastic, realistic to the real weapon which used Bakelite. It comes with a greyish looking metal finish. It also has engraved authentic markings. The internals are high quality. The gearbox layout is much like the AGM MP40's but is a upgraded design. It uses a Mosfet circuit control, 8mm Metal bushings, along with a metal spring guide and a high torque motor. The trigger system is electrical not mechanical. Overall it is very nicely designed weapon with quality internals. It is not suggested that you install a spring higher the a PDI 170%, as the gearbox does have some weak points. The hop up is made of metal though one concern is the hop nub is also metal, which could cause excessive wear on the hop up rubber. It may be wise to install a plastic or rubber nub. Overall I would highly suggest this weapon as I think its pros out weigh its few cons. Here is a great review on it done by Kalbs on WWIIAA. Click here for link ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Shoei Stg44 FPS: 400 Construction: Metal and Wood Cost: $1,550 The Shoei Stg44 is a superb all wood and metal airsoft replica. It shoots at 400fps. It is gas operated blowback using green gas. It fires full auto only. The all wood and metal construction and the blowback system adds much realism to your play. After Lubrication is applied it can be an extremely effective airsoft weapon. An external Green gas adapter is needed. You can buy it on Airsoft Extreme for $1,550. It comes with 3 extra mags, 2 feet of 6mm hose to connect to your remote system, and an SP Green Gas Adapter. I highly suggest you buy this airsoft gun. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- AGM MP44 FPS: 400-430 Construction: Alloy and Plastic/Wood Gearbox: V3 modifed Cost: $200 for Plastic version- $250 for wood version  The AGM MP44 also known as the Stg44 or Sturmgeweher 44 is an electric airsoft gun. Overall the internals are very nice for a Chinese made airsoft gun. The bushings are metal 8mm. I'd suggest that one downgrades the spring to something less powerful. This will put less stress on the gearbox and also decrease the unnecessarily high FPS. A new shim job and a re-grease of the gearbox would also be wise too. It has a few inaccuracies to the real weapon such as the pistol grip being a bit to long, the trigger guard is a bit too small, the fire selector doesn't work like the real one, and the grips are metal instead of wood and are also not removable. The outer parts are all alloy with a few steel parts. It weighs a hefty 8 pounds. The metal finish is flat black. It can look pretty good with some aging. They come with one 300 round High Cap wind up magazine. It's accuracy is a bit low with a 4ft spread at 50ft. This is an assault gun with a high rate of fire so accuracy isn't a big issue. It definitely has a lot of upgrade potential. I'd highly recommend it. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dboys Gas Kar98   FPS: 450 Construction: Alloy and Wood Cost: $110-$169 This is a Gas operated, shell ejecting , bolt action rifle. Little known about this rifle as far as reliability goes. It fires about 450 FPS. The gas is loaded into the bolt. Its full wood and metal. The wood finish is very poor looking. It has an orangish color and almost looks plastic. It feeds the shells much more smoothly then the spring version. Real Kar98 stripper clips can be used to make loading more easy. Probably could be decent sniper rifle with some hop up modifications and a new tight bore barrel. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Schwerpunkt Kar98   FPS: 400 Construction: Alloy and Plastic Cost: $500 This is a custom airsoft gun made to look like a Ka98. Its internals are from a JG Bar-10. The JG Bar-10 is a decent spring rifle that has a lot of upgrade potential. It uses external Dboys K98 parts. The stock is plastic and the rest of the parts are alloy. It takes standard 25 round BAR-10/VSR-10 magazines. Schwerpunkt is a one man business based in the US. It is only for sale on the WW2 Airsoft forum in limited numbers. I would suggest this weapon. It is available here.

 

Marushin M1 Garand FPS: 280 Construction: Alloy and Wood Cost: $500 The Marushin M1 Garand is a Gas operated rifle. It is all wood and metal. The rifle is very much identical to the real one. It runs on HFC134a. Unfortunately it is known to be a very problematic gun. The blow back mechanism among other parts is known to break easily. There is another version of the Marushin M1 Garand. Its know as the export version or the SI version. It shoots closer to 380 Fps and has less problems then the original version. Although I know of a few people who seem to have decent luck with these I don't recommend either rifles as you will run into many problems with them. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marushin M2 Carbine FPS: 260-280 Construction: Alloy and Wood Cost: $400  The Marushin M2 Carbine is a Gas operated rifle. It can shoot both Semi or Full auto just like the real weapon. The weapons construction and finish are very nicely done. The M2 Carbine was not used it WWII so its not proper for a WWII event though. It has a blow back mechanism. It is made of all wood and metal. Though the exterior of this weapon is very nice the internals are known to be horrid. The blow back, among other parts, is known to break after limited use. It is known to have gas leaking problems too. Due to its many problem I do not recommend this weapon unless you only want to use it for display purposes. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dboys Kar98 FPS: 400-430 Construction: Alloy and Plastic/Wood Cost: $80-$150 for Plastic version- $120-$180 for wood version  The Dboys Kar98 is a spring shell ejecting bolt action rifle. It comes with the rifle and 5 metal shells. All black painted parts are metal. The faux wood finish on the plastic version is pretty convincing though the seams give it away. The shells are a big down fall on the gun they cost $6.00 for just two shells. The shells are also known to jam and feed poorly. Real Kar98 stripper clips can be used to make loading more easy. Another downside is it has a two piece barrel and a poor hop up. Combined with not being easily upgraded with its low FPS, its not a good skirmish weapon. It can be made to fire pretty nicely with a some hop up modifications, a new tightbore barrel, new spring(takes an AEG spring I think), and a new piston head. This takes a lot of modifying though and the shells are still a big problem. Its a nice plinker weapon but I wouldn't suggest it for skirmishing. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- G&G C02 G-98/Kar-98   FPS: 350 version and 450 version Construction: Alloy and Wood Cost: $400-$450   G&G's G98, a replica of the WW2 Kar98, is a CO2 powered airsoft weapon. It fires 6mm BB's. It is the first CO2 powered Airsoft rifle to hit the market. The good thing about the CO2 is it can be used in cold weather. Unfortunately this weapon has many downsides. The FPS is all over the place. The power can leap to or decrease to as much as 50 feet per second every shot. Many of the early releases had weak pot metal sears which wear down quickly however later ones have fixed this problem. On the positive side it has a good hop up. However the inconsistent FPS is still a big problem. The rifle has decent quality wood construction although its not up to par with the wood you'll find on real Kar98s. The metal construction is alloy with a simple flat black finish. A leather WW2 style sling comes with each rifle too.  The rifle overall is very similar to the Tanaka Kar98 design despite it being CO2 powered. The FPS is adjustable by using different magazines. One magazine gives it a lower FPS firing around 350fps and the other a higher one which fires around 450fps. Each magazine holds a 8 gram C02 Capsule, which are good for several reloads. The magazine feeds from the bottom and holds 9 BB's. The hop up bucking and O- rings are anti-freeze for cold weather battles. Unfortunately due to this weapons problems I wouldn't suggest it. Magazine design shown below.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- G&G 1903 Springfield G&G released pictures of their new 1903 Springfield. Evidently it will use the same internals as their new Kar98. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------  G&G M1 Garand Coming Soon  G&G Show cased their soon to come AEG M1 Garand at the IWA 2012 Show. As of now the release date is unknown. The magazine is said to hold 23 rounds. It will be full wood and metal. With G&G's great reputation I am sure this will be a fantastic airsoft weapon. I am hoping the summer release will happen but postponing usually happens when it comes to airsoft. Either way this is certainly an extremely welcome surprise!  See Airsoft2day.com for more information HERE. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ICS M1 Garand in the Works  ICS has announced they are making a full metal M1 Garand AEG. They have also said it will use an Marui M14 style gearbox. It will load from the bottom and take an 43 round magazine. They recently reported it will be released hopefully in January of 2013. They have posted some new pictures on Facebook which are shown above. There is supposed to be both a wood and plastic version but so far they have only shown the full wood version.    I am very excited about this one. It is what every avid WW2 Airsofter has been waiting for. Though G&G's M1 Garand release will most likely be superior to this one, hopefully this will be a cheaper alternative for those of us on a tight budget. See there Facebook page for more photos. LINK HERE  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Zeta Labs Gas Kar98 It looks like Zeta Labs is going to be making a gas powered Kar98. It looks like it will be very nice from the pictures. It will include a real wood stock which looks very nice. They said it will use a Mauri VSR-10 hop up. Otherwise the internals are unknown. Hopefully after the failure of the G&G model this one will be nice. Supposedly it will cost a very cheap $160 usd. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SRC MP41 SRC Announced they are making an MP41 which was seen at the IWA show It will of course use the same internals as their MP40. They had a model at the IWA 2012 show. The stock proportions seem to be off. Hopefully they will fix this before its release. The stock will be real wood. Video from IWA here. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ares 1928 and M1A1 Thompsons in the works   Ares has announced on their website that they are in the process of making an electric blow back 1928 and M1A1 Thompson. This video has been released showing it being fired. Click here for the Video!

Intro
Hay gran variedad de casquillos en el mercado de piezas de recambio de airsoft, y con ésta pequeña guía pretendo el aclarar que tipo de bushings te van a hacer falta dependiendo de las valvas del gearbox que vayas a usar y en qué casos.  El tipo de casquillos dependerá principalmente del tipo de configuración que use tu AEG, pero principalmente, de la potencia en FPS que tenga el gearbox.. Más abajo tienes varias cosas que debverías de saber sobre los casquillos (bushings) y rodamientos (bearings) para usar la mejor elección con tu gearbox.

1. Los casquillos de plástico no pueden ser usados en configuraciones que entreguen muchos FPS

2. Los casquillos con cojinetes incrementarán el rendimiento, pero a costa de disminuir la fiabilidad

3. Son necesarios casquillos de 7mm y 8mm para configuraciones de mucha potencia

Puesta a punto de un Gearbox

Cuando se habla de poner a punto un gearbox, siempre pensamos en cambiar el muelle, pistón o cualquier otro componente, cuando quizás no sea lo necesario para el correcto funcionamiento del mismo. Desde aquí trataremos de aclarar todos estos aspectos que tan importantes son para conseguir que nuestras marcadoras estén siempre preparadas para la acción.

Primeramente vamos a aclarar unos cuantos términos técnicos para que no haya dudas posteriormente. En este caso vamos a ver los componentes principales de un gearbox y sus nombres, en ingles y la correspondencia en español.
Gears / Engranajes: Son tres, denominados Sector, Spur y Bevel Gear, los denominaremos Sector, Intermedio y Motor, puesto que es mas fácil identificarlos así.
Engranaje Sector: Se denomina así ya que parte de los dientes que de los que dispone sólo cubren la mitad de su circunferencia, esto es así puesto que es el que actúa sobre el pistón y lo hace retroceder en cada disparo venciendo la fuerza del muelle, los hay de varios tipos: rectos, helicoidales, con mas dientes para pistones largos (tipo GR-25 o PSG-1) pero todos son básicamente iguales.

Engranaje Intermedio: Lo denominamos así puesto que está entre el engranaje motor y el sector. Es el encargado de transmitir el movimiento de uno a otro realizando una desmultiplicación que reduce la velocidad y aumenta la potencia para poder mover adecuadamente el Sector. Existen varios tipos de intermedios según la desmultiplicación que realizan, siendo denominados High Torque, que aumentan la fuerza a cambio de velocidad y High Speed que hacen lo contrario.

Engranaje Motor: Es el que está en contacto con el motor y transfiere su giro al Intermedio. Incorpora una serie de levas que permiten que el antireversal actúe reteniendo el conjunto de engranajes al terminar de disparar, y que pueden ser dos o cuatro.

Anti-Reversal: Esta pieza impide que al dejar de disparar los engranajes y el conjunto del pistón y muelle se desplacen hacia atrás, lo que podría dañar el conjunto y la posición de reposo del mismo no sería estable, haciendo que el funcionamiento fuera defectuoso.

Interruptor de disparo: Es el que desconecta el interruptor del gatillo en modo semiautomático en cada tiro, es accionado por una leva en la parte posterior del engranaje sector y es desconectado por el muelle situado en la pletina del selector de tiro.

Bushings, Bearings / Casquillos, Cojinetes: Son los ejes sobre los cuales giran los engranajes y hay de varios tipos: de plástico, de metal, de metal autolubricantes, cojinetes de bolas y de diferentes medidas, 6, 7 y 8 mm. dependiendo del tipo de gearbox. Ahora bien, en muchas ocasiones nos planteamos, en caso de tener que sustituirlos, qué tipo usar, casquillos o cojinetes. En todo caso han de ser metálicos para prevenir posibles roturas y dentro de estos, los casquillos son bastante mas resistentes que los cojinetes puesto que no disponen de partes móviles y en algunos casos se ha comprobado que a la larga son más fiables. La contrapartida de los cojinetes es que el uso de los mismos hace que la resistencia que ofrecen sea menor, haciendo que giren mas rápido. En todo caso dependerá del uso que queramos darle a la marcadora.

Shims / Arandelas: Estas pequeñas piezas centran los engranajes contra los casquillos o cojinetes y permiten el centrado de los mismos. Si no existieran, los engranajes se desgastarían, se romperían dientes e incluso dejarían de funcionar en caso de que el contacto entre ellos no fuera correcto. Los hay de diferentes tolerancias, desde 0,15mm hasta 0,5mm.

Una vez explicadas estas piezas, vamos a trabajar con ellas y ver cómo interactúan y cómo optimizar su funcionamiento.
Si observamos el funcionamiento de un gearbox, vemos que unos de los componentes que más afectan al funcionamiento y a la fiabilidad del mismo son los casquillos, ya que soportan los Gears, los centran y permiten su giro. Cuando nos planteemos la puesta a punto, éste es uno de los primeros puntos que requerirá nuestra atención. Luego veremos como usar las arandelas adecuadas para centrar los engranajes.
La primera vez que desmontemos nuestro gearbox, tenemos que fijarnos qué tipo de casquillos lleva para, en caso necesario, pedir unos casquillos o cojinetes metálicos si son de plástico, y siempre limpiaremos la grasa que se encuentre en su interior, para prevenir mezclar grasas de diferentes tipos.
En este caso vamos a optimizar un gearbox tipo 3, incorporado en G36, AK, etc. De un vistazo podemos observar que incorpora casquillos de plástico, los cuales vamos a sustituir por casquillos metálicos.

Desmontaremos el motor y su jaula de soporte, retirando los cables y soportes que haya, así como la placa de soporte superior.

Ahora quitamos el mecanismo de transferencia del movimiento del selector de tipo aflojando el tornillo que incorpora y retirando el conjunto.

Quitamos todos los tornillos del gearbox y procedemos a abrirlo con cuidado de sujetar la guia del muelle y el conjunto para que no salte sin control.

Una vez abierto retiramos todos los engranajes y los limpiamos observando las arandelas que llevan para posteriormente volver a colocarlas en su sitio. Quitaremos también el conjunto pistón-cilindro-tappet plate con cuidado de soltar antes el muelle que lo acciona.

Retiramos los casquillos existentes, y colocamos los nuevos, asegurándonos que encajen completamente.

Ahora volvemos a montar los engranajes con las arandelas en las posiciones que originalmente tenían. Hay que tener en cuenta que cuando sustituimos los casquillos por otros, las tolerancias de los engranajes respecto del gearbox varían con lo que hay que comprobar que sean correctas.

Cerrando el gearbox, procederemos a comprobar las holguras existentes. Con un punzón u otra herramienta similar veremos si los engranajes se desplazan hacia arriba o hacia abajo, anotando las diferencias que existan.

Así mismo comprobaremos que el engranaje Sector quede centrado respecto de la posición del pistón, para que cuando funcione realice la tracción en la parte central del dentado del mismo.

Una vez comprobados, procederemos a solventar las diferencias con las arandelas correspondientes.

Volvemos a probar que se hayan resuelto y hacemos girar el conjunto para observar si nos hemos pasado en alguno, el giro ha de ser suave, sin esfuerzo. En caso de que no sea así, examinaremos cada uno de los engranajes por separado para modificar su posición.

Una vez comprobado el correcto centrado de los engranajes procederemos al montaje del resto de los componentes, volviendo a engrasar las partes necesarias y a probar el funcionamiento del gearbox para ver si el giro y la velocidad de tiro es correcta.

Ya habremos optimizado el gearbox, y nos garantizará un funcionamiento sin pegas, en posteriores entregas veremos el resto de los componentes.

Por ahora, aquí teneis un esquema básico que ofrece Systema para el ajuste de los engranajes, es meramente orientativo pero puede servirnos de referencia.

Texto: Logan
Fotografía: 0'20 magazine

fuente: 0.20 Magazine [http://www.020mag.com/tecnico/215/puesta-a-punto-de-un-gearbox]

Utilizo habitualmente el programa TuxGuitar y, por primera vez, no logré que abriera un archivo.
Éste tenía extensión .gpx, la propia de Guitar Pro 6.

Había un método hace unos años que consistía en subir el archivo a una web y ésta permitía descargarlo ya convertido a .gp5, compatible con TuxGuitar y Guitar Pro 5. Esa página web desapareció.

El método actual consiste en añadir un plugin a TuxGuitar para que así pueda abrir los ficheros .gpx

Hay que buscar la carpeta de instalación de TuxGuitar.

En dicha carpeta hay varias subcarpetas, una de las cuales se llama "shared".

Dentro de la carpeta "shared" hay otra carpeta llamada "PLUGINS".

Dentro de la carpeta "plugins" hay que copiar un fichero que hay que descargar: http://sourceforge.net/projects/tuxguitar-fork/files/plugins/

A partir de ese momento TuxGuitar podrá manejar archivos .gpx e, incluso, exportarlos a .gp5 (compatible con Guitar Pro 5).

Incluso los grandes de la tecnología lo dicen: las baterías han evolucionado muy poco en comparación con otros componentes electrónicos, y eso hace que uno de los principales factores para valorar un dispositivo sea el comportamiento de estos apartados.

Los desarrolladores de dispositivos móviles lo han intentado todo. Hoy en día buena parte del volumen de los smartphones y tablets se lo llevan las baterías, pero el interés por grosores ínfimos y pesos reducidos también limita la capacidad y autonomía de las baterías. Si los fabricantes hacen lo que pueden con lo que tienen, ¿cómo podemos ayudar nosotros?

Lo cierto es que al menos podemos “mimar” nuestras baterías. La tecnología de Ión Litio presente actualmente en el mercado sigue sin tener sustituta clara, así que hasta que llegue un salto cualitativo en este terreno, os proponemos seguir algunas reglas de oro para mantener la autonomía de vuestras baterías al máximo.

1. La recarga de las baterías es lo que reduce la vida de estos componentes. Normalmente las baterías en smartphones pueden llegar a los 700 o 1000 ciclos de carga y mantener tras esos ciclos el 90% de su capacidad.
2. La carga de 0 a 100% se considera un ciclo de carga. Cargar 5 veces del 80% al 100% equivale a un ciclo de carga.
3. Dejar tu teléfono conectado en el cargador si el dispositivo ya está cargado puede suponer la reducción de la autonomía de la batería, aunque esto es cada vez menos frecuente puesto que los nuevos dispositivos desconectan por sí solos el circuito de carga hasta que la carga de la batería baja a aproximadamente el 95%. Normalmente el problema surge si dejáis conectado vuestro dispositivo móvil más de 24 horas.
4. Las baterías de Ión Litio no necesitan ningún acondicionamiento.
5. La mayoría de baterías de Ión-Litio llegan con una carga del 40-50% ya que este es el nivel óptimo para almacenar una batería de este tipo durante largos periodos.
6. Una carga lenta mantiene la capacidad global de la batería mejor que una carga rápida. Por esa razón, por ejemplo, el HTC One no tiene la tecnología Quick Charge integrada en los nuevos Snapdragon 600 habilitada.
7. Los smartphones y los tablets (y la mayoría de dispositivos electrónicos) tienen circuitos de carga que solo captan cierto amperaje sin importar el número de amperios que ofrece el cargador. Usar un cargador de 3,1 A (común en tablets) no logra incrementar de forma significativa la velocidad a la que se carga tu smartphone. La mayoría de los smartphones usan entre 0,8 y 1,2 A en las regargas, y todo lo demás sobra, ya que el smartphone sólo coge lo que necesita.
8. Guardar una batería de Ión Litio con una carga del 0% es realmente malo para la conservación de su autonomía. Descargarla hasta el 0% no es recomendable normalmente, pero hacerlo alguna que otra vez no la dañará ni reducirá su capacidad.
9. Recargar tu batería del 0% al 100% no hará que tu batería tenga más autonomía. Sin embargo, puede resetear las estadísticas de los niveles de batería de forma que estos datos ofrezcan información más precisa sobre el nivel de carga de la batería en cada momento.
10. Cargar del 95% al 100% suele llevar bastante tiempo porque se debe hacer una carga casi mediante goteo. Intentar hacer este proceso puede reducir la capacidad general de la batería en su vida útil, pero normalmente no lo suficiente como para importarnos. Este problema suele ser más importante en otros escenarios, como el de los coches eléctricos.

Como señalan algunos usuarios con experiencia en este tema en foros como XDA Developers y Reddit,es mejor cargar el teléfono del 80% al 100% cinco veces que cargar de 0% a 100% una vez, ya que esa descarga completa continua puede ser perjudicial para nuestra batería.

El consejo es claro: dejar el teléfono cargando por la noche, y cogerlo por la mañana cuando nos levantemos. Ese ciclo de carga será normalmente el adecuado para la mayoría de usuarios. Lo ideal es cargar la batería si tenemos la posibilidad cuando esta baje del 80% si podemos. Y si baja del 40%, tratar de hacerlo sí o sí. No pasa nada por estar recargando continuamente la batería, el problema es que se descargue del todo y pasen un par de semanas.

Fuente: xataka

• Consulta del estado de la Declaración de la Renta desde la web: deberemos ir a la campaña renta 2012 y clicar en la opción “Consulta devolución” e indicar nuestros datos personales y la referencia del borrador o datos fiscales del ejercicio 2012 o el importe de la casilla 620 de la Declaración de Renta 2012.

• Consulta del estado de la Declaración de la Renta desde la Sede Electrónica: se deberá identificar en el apartado “Mis expedientes” con el certificado electrónico o DNIe, el primer apellido y la referencia del borrador o datos fiscales del ejercicio 2012 o el importe de la casilla 620 de la Declaración de Renta 2012.

• Su declaración se está tramitando.
• Su declaración ha sido tramitada por los órganos de Gestión Tributaria, estimándose conforme la devolución solicitada por usted
• …